Japan Trip 2026 - Izumo City, Sunrise Izumo Sleeper Train
Izumoshi Taisha [Izumo City Grand Shrine] was another spot on my list of places to visit in Japan but again the distance from Tokyo had put me off. I was reminded of it after watching Zatsu Tabi and it also happened to be near Sakaiminato so I decided to add it to my itinerary.

Chain hotel Tokoyo Inn's breakfast buffet was a very simple and modest one held in the same lobby area where check-in and check-out took place instead of having its own special area. Kind of felt a bit isolated because there weren't any foreigners around. No foreign languages or faces.
Fortunately my Asian descent meant I could blend in in Japan, often being mistaken for being Japanese until I speak. Or, when I don't do what Japanese do such as nod my head apologetically when accidentally getting in someone's way.

After taking the Yakumo train from Yonago to Izumoshi station, you have to take a Dentetsu train which is not covered by JR Pass. It’s not expensive at 550 yen one way and you can use an IC card like the Suica to pay at ticket machine.

Train times are sparse, around every hour so you might want to check the schedule before hand.

Station shopping centre was quiet even though it was a Sunday when native families are usually out on trips.
I ended up getting something to eat before boarding which was cash only.

There are direct and non-direct trains to Izumoshi Taisha-mae Station. Direct ones you stay on board even though you see some other people transferring to the opposite train. I had a direct train going there. Once everything starts to close up, it is fairly much non-direct trains only and will require a transfer at Kawato Station.

Current Izumoshi Taisha-mae Station was quite a retro looking place.

I decided to visit the former Izumoshi Taisha Mae station first because it had looked interesting, even before I saw it in Zatsu. The walk there was very quiet. I hardly passed anyone on the way.

Even before visiting the main temple, the roads already had these colossal stone Torii gates. Probably bigger than the Meiji gates in Harajuku. Pretty fitting for the oldest and second most important temple in Japan.
Not quite as old ss the shrine itself since it's dated Taisho Year 4 (1915) but Torri gates get replaced every so often.

The former station had just finished undergoing some maintenance but unfortunately, there seemed to be an event going on during the Sunday so I couldn’t go inside for a (paid) visit.
There wasn’t a foreigner in sight or foreign language to be heard.

There were still fun things to see such as the railway ruins (shown in Zatsu Tabi), the old train that used to run there, station signs, barriers etc.
Again being ethnic Chinese, I was mistaken as Japanese and was asked to help a native family take a picture by the train. I think their grandchild was too busy running around so they didn't make it into the picture.
Probably could have offered to wait but my social anxiety said run...
The sun was fairly much blazing hot again today at 26C so I was fairly much trying to stay in the shades. I was tempted to just take a taxi but decided take a break at a small bench before making my return trip back to the current Taisha Mae station and onwards to Izumoshi Great Shrine (Taisha) itself in the opposite direction.
There were already plenty of sculptures around depicting the land making and matchmaking deity Okuninushi statues around already.
Here the Heisei Year 4 (1993) sculpture has him drawing other lands to Izumo in the hopes of Izumo continuing to thrive in the future.

Now there was a lot more people making their way there. The path leading there was surrounded by indie stores and shops much like other tourist spots but the path was much wider.

It was quite a walk.

Quite a lot of rabbit statues too, supposedly representing the ones that Okuninushi saved.
Now they're considered his messengers.

Even once you reach the entrance, there was still some way to go uphill, path surrounded by lanterns and statues before you reached the main shrine.
Must look nice at night when the path is lit up.

You pass by statues representing the point when Okuninushi gained his powers to grant happy relations.
He seems to have quite a reputation for dominating the hearts of goddesses and having kids with them all prior to this too. Tales of one man, many wives go far back.

This was fairly much what caught my attention when I was first browsing for spots to visit before travelling to Japan for the first time; a giant rope ward.
It was certainly more impressive than the small ones you see around other popular shrines full of foreign tourists.

Plenty of people wanting photos in front of it with the giant rope ward; mostly natives.

Looks even better up close.

Gates on the Grand Shrine grounds fairly much all have big rope wards on them. It’s a big place and would probably take half the day to explore fully.

Managed to catch some carp streamers when there was a gust of wind. Great photo op.
No shortage of patriotism around here.

A small shrine dedicated to the Sukunahikonano deity who united people and presented ways of curing both people and animals.
Turtles and Koi getting along or maybe not since they’re huddled up above water together… You could buy some feed for them.

No access to the main hall which is understandable. A lot of flies in the area and people walking their dogs.

Some were queuing for grand ceremonies hoping their children will meet a suitable partner and have children. A pretty common wish amongst parents no matter which country you are in I think.
Shrine Miko and Shisho attendants were busy walking back and forth being guides.

On the return trip to the station I think you’ll really feel the scale of the stone Torii gates passed by earlier when you see it from afar.

Fairly much every place has a mascot.

I stopped by for some 1000 yen (£5) Izumomaki [Izumo Twister] mixed ice-cream and finished it quickly because it was hot at 28C. Even in the shade it was starting to drip (sticky matcha on my jeans too, doh...!).
Was it worth it? All I can say, it was nice and it wasn’t the powdered kind that could choke you.

All these numerous narrow side lanes in Japan are always fascinating. UK you’ll be asking to get mugged.

It’s been mostly cash only and no familiar conbinis around. Starbucks' reach is far. A familiar chain cafe for some and it was packed inside.

Had some time to admire the station some more. It was 5pm and many places were closing up so not many people were around. Clean photo opportunity.
I noticed the staff member turned off the IC card ticket machine as shops closed so it was the cash only machine left. That ended up confusing some rare foreigners who weren't literate in Japanese.

Was an indirect train back and when no staff member was around, you just board when it arrives – with a ticket ready for the destination station of course.

What a day of trekking it was.
Thought these statues performed when the clock strikes a specific hour but turns out they’re just for people to literally play around by tapping buttons.

10 minutes walk away from Yonago Station was a Gusto. I walked through some pretty dark or dimly lit paths following Maps but I felt safe enough.

The chain restaurant was fairly much my go to now whenever I couldn’t find somewhere within comfort zone to eat at. Familiar multilingual menus to order from on a tablet, Bellabot brings you your order, self payment. No staff interaction involved unless you prefer to.

Sunrise Izumo Sleeper Train
After taking an indirect train back to Izumoshi station, I had to book a train back to Yonago too. Unlike my first trip to Japan where I booked eveything in advance, I didn’t want to tie myself down to particular time.
I entered my destination, took my ticket and thought nothing of it. When I arrived at the train and got on, I realised it was the Izumoshi Sunrise Izumo sleeper train.
At first, when I saw the sleeping compartments, I thought I must have got on the wrong train but turns out I hadn’t.
It was something I had wanted to try too!

So the JR Pass only covers a basic “Nobi Nobi” compartment where you just stretch (hence nobi) and sleep on the floor, shoes off with a blanket provided for you.
I got a space in the lower deck.

Think some people brought their own pillow or you could just bundle something up. I don’t think there’s any luggage space since people just put their carry-on suit cases in the same space. There was enough space to sit up right comfortably for me.
I didn't notice a charging port but you might find one in the lobby where people hung out.

You also have access to a (paid) shower and lobby. I only managed to checkout the shower. People also used the common sinks all bullet trains have to brushing teeth etc. Quite odd seeing people casually walking around in their Yukata since I've never tried a Ryokan inn or native hot spring resort.
As you can see there's only a small partition between you and the other spaces in terms of privacy. Still better than economy seats on flights though.

Pay extra and you could have a room to yourself. A single one just happened to be open and unused so I could sneak a peek.

I’m not sure what it would be like sleeping the night on the train. Curtains were pulled and people were already sleeping at 20:00!
I somewhat did want to go for a private compartment when I originally wanted to try this, taking it from Tokyo to Izumoshi without all the train changes but this experience was good enough.
Fun way to end the day!
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